What's this blog?

Neil's first sabbatical is taking our family (Neil, Maren, Kielan, and Innes) to Europe for half a year.  This blog will chronicle some of our adventures and observations to share with friends and family.  Feel free to offer feedback and suggestions!  

Just below this bit of text (and above the blog entries) is a slideshow that connects to our Picasa photo site.  There are captions for many of them, so it's kind of like a blog in itself (you can look at images individually, or go through them as a slideshow -- for manual advance, set a long time interval and use the arrow keys).  There are many more images at the Picasa site, because it's much easier to upload them.  Just click on the slideshow below to find that site.  Enjoy!

Amerikanischer Bibliothek


Until the mid-1990's (after the fall of the Berlin Wall, when European tensions eased), there was an American army base in Karlsruhe.  (There are still a few such bases around Germany, including nearby Heidelberg, but not nearly so many as before.)  To help support the servicepeople and their families, the Army provided a library of English-language books.  After the base closed, a movement emerged among the local community, and they've managed to keep the library going.  The Amerikanischer Bibliothek has naturally been a popular destination for our family.  On a recent visit, in addition to Tolkien and Asterix & Obelix, we took out a 6-CD set of the original BBC production of The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, and have been listening to episodes at odd times since then.  


One result of this is that diet of odd 1970's British comedic science fiction is that Kielan is starting to talk like Zaphod Beeblebrox (the left half of whose brain is the hippest place in the known universe).  Oh, man!  Hopefully she won't adopt other aspects of his character.  But hey, baby, that's somebody else's problem


On the next visit, we'll very likely get the books out of the library -- all five in "the increasingly inaccurately-named Hitchhiker's Guide Trilogy."  Far out!


...and Maren and the girls will surely get some more actual travelogue postings online in the near future...  once a cup of tea restores their normality.  In the meantime, be sure to keep an eye on your towel!  


Die Historische Dampfzüge (by Kielan)

Die Historische Dampfzüge  

             
On Sunday the 7th, my family and I went on a trip on an historic steam train. On it, I met one of the train's many St. Nikoli. Our particular St. Nikolaus had a monk helper, not an elf.  
                    
St. Nick asked us to recite a poem, and every kid got a cute stuffed eisbär (polar bear),even the ones who wouldn't recite.
       
When we arrived at  Bad Herrenalb, a small mountain village in the black forest, I got to turn the lever that let water flow into a huge 26 cubic metre tank.
       
My sister and I then climbed up into the engine where I took some super pictures of the 8 tonnes of coal needed to fill the coal car :o, and the roaring fire that powered the train. 
 
Next, we watched a concert by some of the Bad Herrenalbers, and proceeded up a hill* to the Rathaus (town hall) where we saw the christmas market and a tree growing out of an old church ruin. 
                                         
When we finally re-boarded  the train, The engine was pulling the train backwards, in order to avoid taking it around a tight curve! 

* Because it is FLAT (as a pancake) here in Karlsruhe, a mere Bad Herrenalb hill is a mountain! 


Our Polar Bear Family (text and composite photo by Innes)


These are polar bears that we got on the train in the picture.  The little polar bear was not he was from the store under our apartment.   

     

Cool Playgrounds

The Cool Playgrounds!  by Kielan

Here in Karlsruhe there are tons of cool playgrounds.
  
One is a model viking ship equipped with a crow's nest, slide, raft, and harbor town. There was a blacksmith's, a pub, and a super wonky house complete with a bucket for hauling sand and a chute for dumping it. The seesaw has dragon heads for seats -- there are dragon heads everywhere!  There is even a basket-on-a-rope swing and a tightrope thing.
    

One has a giant rope structure with a rubber bouncy strip, a tiny wooden house, a baby area, and a seesaw.  The bouncy strip works like this: Kid 1 sits on side 1. K2 jumps onto S2. K1 goes boooooiing! plop! All laugh. 
     
Innes even scaled the rope tower!!
  
  
                                  
At the 3rd playground, there is a wooden village, a really fun zipline, a molecule, a twin rope thing,  a water works, an overhead seesaw, a merry-go-round, and a wooden house. Here I finally climbed the rope tower. 
    
  More to come!!
--KHD--

Deck the Halls!

Well, these folks sure go to town on their Christmas decorations (and with no Thanksgiving holiday in the way, they set to in early November).  The city, or at least the part near where we live, is going bonkers.  There are trees everywhere, lights hanging above the streets, holiday decorations incorporated into the window displays in all the zillions of high-fashion shops, and a humongous Christmas market spreading out from the Marktplatz, or central square of the town (where there's usually an outdoor market with tarp shelters, recently containing mostly flowers and a bit of produce).  Now, however, the plaza and adjacent streets are lined with little wooden buildings housing vendors of toys, crafts, decorations, food, and a traditional hot spiced wine called Glühwein.  Not far away are things like a temporary ice-skating rink and a loop of track on which runs a tiny steam locomotive pulling little cars that can be ridden by children and grownups alike.  These markets are found in most German towns, though some are bigger and more crowded than others.  And some places feel more important than others, as well;  we have a booklet about all the doings around Karlsruhe, titled Märchenhafte Weihnachtsstadt Karlsruhe, or "Christmas fairy-tale city of Karlsruhe."  Strasbourg, just over the border in France (but a rather Germanic section of France) styles itself Capitale de Noël, or "Capital of Christmas."


Look for an album called "Weihnachtsmarkt" on our Picasa page to see some images of the Christmas markets and other decorations.  (It's really quite a pain to get photos into these blog entries.)




Settling into Karlsruhe

We have settled into a two-bedroom apartment in the International Department of the Universität Karlsruhe.  Our building is quite centrally located, adjacent to the grounds surrounding the palace built by the founder of Karlsruhe (that was in 1715, so the city is quite young by European standards).  The whole area is laid out as a circle, with paths and streets radiating from a tower just behind the palace (more on that later!).  You can see it on this map, though we're on the opposite corner of the building from the indicator.


We're also just a block away from what I'd call "the high street," lined with fancy shops.  The two dominant genres of store on the Kaiserstraße (Straße, or Strasse, means street) are high fashion and cellphone stores.  They really dominate;  there are a few banks, jewelers, bakeries, and cafes, a drugstore-like establishment, and a ritzy department store (with the only nearby food market in its basement, also ritzy), but it's amazing how many different ways a limited set of manikins can be dressed up... and how many brands of cellphones there are around here (most different from the US, so our iPhones aren't very useful).  There are even competing cellphone stores with the same carriers practically next to each other.  On the side streets, there are more specialty shops -- more bakeries and cafes, a butcher, a kitchen store, and even a sock store.  Our particular neighborhood, perhaps because it's close to the main art museum, is crawling with art galleries -- they just opened up three new ones on the first floor of a new building next door.  


There does seem to be a lot of building going on;  one of the less-welcome aspects of our central location is that the construction noise cranks up pretty early in the morning -- while the hoppin' social life can stay active pretty late at night. 


unser erster Tag in Deutschland (our first day in Germany)

So once on the ground in Frankfurt, we found our way to the airport train station, and took a fast ICE train to Karlsruhe, where we'll be for the next two months.  Each big city has a main train station, or Hauptbanhof (vs. banhof, any old train station).  (This distinction once resulted into an unscheduled stroll across the town of Plzen, as my friend Ferren and I failed to make the identification in Czech.  Neil got a few bottles of hand-imported Pilsener out of the episode, and I garnered a very fragrant backpack).

  

                                                         

After bringing our luggage to our apartment in the International Department of the Universität Karlsruhe, we ventured out into the town, past odd pigeon-feeding stations, trees on crutches, and a Metal Man -- drop a coin in his hat and he moves -- to visit a youthful city bureaucrat to register our presence.

          

                                                      

Later in the day, when Neil went back to work at the Forschungszentrum (Research Center), some 10 km north of town, he admonished Maren, Kielan, and Innes to stay awake as long as possible to better handle the jet lag (we're six hours ahead of Pittsburgh here).  We hopped a random tram, just to see what it was like.  The Karlsruhe trams are quite famous, as a matter of fact;  it was here that the first tram-train system was developed, in which regional trains and city trams run on the same tracks, so one can catch an inter-city train in the heart of town.  The Karlsruhe Model has been adopted in many other places around Europe.  In the city, the trams share the streets quite peacefully with pedestrians.  I might keep a strong hold on a wilful toddler, but other than that concern, it's quite safe and pleasant -- they move quietly and predictably.  Smooth, quiet operation is a hallmark of German engineering, it seems -- from trams to sliding doors.

  

Both girls enjoyed experiencing the articulated tram cars, positioning themselves to get the most out of each curve. Kielan and Maren did better than Innes in the staying-awake department, though.  Sweet dreams!

  

                                                                 

Airplane Food


    The Icky Plane Dinner -- by Kielan


I have just found out how incredibly ICKY plane dinners can be. ☹✈ weird, slimy noodles... crumbly old bun... soft, sticky butter...(all I liked was the yummy cheesecake).

Crossing the Pond

Traveling across the Atlantic usually involves an overnight flight.  We arrived in Frankfurt in the early morning, greeted by a welcoming Neil, who had come over a week earlier, and to a brand new world -- in more ways than one.  
   

On our way

After several whirlwind weeks of getting ready -- meeting with teachers and gathering materials for schooling the kids, getting the porch roof built and under cover, winding up obligations stateside, creating political sidewalk art, and of course packing -- Kielan, Innes and I set out for Germany.  Neil had already crossed the pond to get his experiments started at the Forschungzentrum (research center) in Karlsruhe, and served as a welcoming committee as we arrived in Frankfurt.  
















...and we're off!  Folks who have traveled through the Pittsburgh 
airport may recall the red neon circle at each end of the airport train. 
Kielan and Innes have a tradition of keeping a close eye on it.




At the airport security check, a rather sleep-deprived Mama didn’t 
realize that there’s metal in those new knee braces… which led to 
a really thorough hand-search by the TSA.           (photo by Kielan)
  

Before leaving the 'Burgh,Kielan and Innes bid farewell to George Washington.

A great opportunity to contemplate land-use patterns on our way across Pennsylvania:


Those people-movers are even more fun when you have a destination in mind!  With a five-and-a-half-hour layover, we had plenty of time for play at the Philadelphia airport...

About Me

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Maren Cooke is a planetary scientist by training, but now concentrates on environmental education and activism on climate, air quality, plastics, food, and justice. She serves on the board of GASP, 350 Pittsburgh, PASUP, and ReImagine Food Systems, and works closely with other organizations including CCL, Climate Reality Leadership Corps, Sierra Club, Grow Pgh, Transition Pgh, CMU’s Institute for Green Science, and the City of Pittsburgh. She volunteers as an Urban Ecosteward, a Tree Tender, and a Master Gardener, and co-founded a nature education program and a school garden at a local K-8. She has helped create science curricula and train teachers, and has taught physics, astronomy, environmental science, and permaculture to people of all ages. She has operated an urban microfarm, supplying organic produce to a local restaurant and a food pantry and garden plants to the surrounding community, and has been rebuilding her family’s home as a demonstration site for green building and green living. Maren also organizes and hosts Sustainability Salons, a monthly environmental education forum and community gathering now eleven years running.

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